On quays and in harbours throughout the British Isles, the navy Guernsey has long been a familiar sight. Whether knitted by hand in the traditional style or on a modern machine, these special garments are recognised by their distinctive colour, smock-based shape and a special, finely-knit texture that affords protection from salt water, strong sunshine and chill winds.
Guernsey-style knitting patterns are not exclusive to the Channel Islands and can be found all along the British coastline –twenty-four different designs have been recorded in Cornwall alone. The use of the names ‘Guernsey’ and ‘Jersey’ is a reflection of the strong influence and tradition of the knitting industry in these Channel Islands during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries; trading and shipping links ensured that the knitting, wearing and naming of the garment became widespread.
The roots of this industry can be traced back to the 16th century, when Guernsey was granted licence by the crown to import wool from England. The island’s first knitters were the womenfolk of fishing and farming families, who passed their skills down from one generation to the next. Requiring a certain level of expertise, Guernseys are traditionally knitted ‘in the round’ on four or five double-ended steel wires or pins, making them seamless. The yarn used is a dark navy worsted in four- and five-ply; it is not an oiled yarn but is instead twisted tightly and knitted very closely, a process which imparts superior weatherproof and insulation properties to the finished garment.
As well as knitting skills, patterns were also handed down from generation to generation. Many families devised their own particular patterns – sadly, these were often used to identify the bodies of those who died at sea. On a brighter note, brides would also knit a special ‘Bridal Shirt’ for their husbands-to-be, perhaps adding a unique touch to the familiar patterns. Combining purl and plain stitches, these patterns were inspired by the knitters’ surroundings; look more closely at a traditional Guernsey sweater and the story of working life at sea emerges. The rib at the top of the sweater sleeve is said to represent a rope ladder in ships’ rigging, while the raised seam across the shoulder resembles a rope, and garter stitch panels on the bodice suggest waves breaking on the shore.
To this day, traditional Guernsey knitwear is still being produced, using centuries‑old techniques, and – despite innovations in garment technology – still being worn by those who recognise and value its inherent properties. Practical and also beautiful, thanks to their truly nautically-inspired design, these distinctive garments remain a wearable piece of British history.
Sources:
Cornish Guernseys & Knit Frocks, Mary Wright
http://guernseywoollens.com/history.php
http://www.channeljumper.com/index.php?pid=history
This blog post was commissioned by Quba Sails.
